It’s early morning, still dark, cold, snowy and winter. When this gets posted, hopefully winter will be the only carry forward for us as we’ll be en route to Spain. Reading last July, a solo traveler’s post on spending a couple of weeks last January in Andalusia got me thinking. Last winter, having bailed on Mexico, we stayed put and endured the coldest February in forty years. Not complaining, as making home in Alberta comes with making peace with winter. And while my tolerance for cold has lessened considerably after a thyroidectomy in 2017, I’ve come to love the soft, enveloping quiet of falling snow, the invitation to turn inward during the long dark, the slow, the still. But I wondered aloud about shifting direction this winter. A quick email to Sam, who with his wife and sons host an exquisite b’n’b in the mountains west of Sevilla, confirmed winter can be a lovely, low season time to visit. Confirmation from husband that yes, Spain would meet his destination criteria of good food and wine, gave me the go ahead to don my travel consultant hat and design our itinerary. Barcelona and Madrid would give way to a more focused, yet leisurely experience of Andalusia. A circuit starting quickly but ending slowly in Sevilla, with an easy few days Finca Buenvino in Aracena, then onto Cordoba, Granada, Malaga.
“Every time you leave home,John O’Donohue, “For The Traveler,” in To Bless the Space Between Us, 2008
Another road takes you
Into a world you were never in.”
I’d already visited some of the region. September 2017 I was scheduled to co-host a circle gathering in Germany when a friend suggested we travel to her favourite part of Spain, an area she was certain I’d become as enamored of as had she. Rather magically, the email invitation to attend a writer’s retreat at Finca Buenvino a few weeks’ preceding. Afterwards, five days soaking up elements of Sevilla – hot sunshine, cold manzanilla sherry, tapas and flamenco, Mudejar architecture, colourful tiles and gardens – and a day in Cordoba. As the scout for some of the travelling I do with my husband, I’m delighted to be stepping back into the familiar, while anticipating the fresh and new with him.
“Old places that know you wellJohn O’Donohue, “For The Traveler,” in To Bless the Space Between Us, 2008
Will pretend nothing
Changed since your last visit.”
I know we’ll be beautifully hosted in Aracena. Sam and Jeannie, British expats, built their pink villa decades ago as a guest house and cooking school. Specializing in fresh, local Andalusian inspired cuisine complemented by sherries, vermouths and wines, I knew this would be an easy way to my man’s heart. I’ve reserved for luncheon in Linares, a nearby hill town, at Arrieros, the Michelin recommended café I’d walked by that September where the owner invited me in for gazpacho, which I had to regretfully decline due to the day’s writing retreat schedule. Another luncheon booked at Sevilla’s ConTenedor, returning to that terrific slow food restaurant featuring a pastiche of local flavor and colour. We’ll see flamenco, compare the vast beauty of Al Hambra with the more accessible Real Alcazar, sip and savour at tapas bars. I’ll visit the art galleries missed the first time.
“When you travel,John O’Donohue, “For The Traveler,” in To Bless the Space Between Us, 2008
A new silence
Goes with you,
And if you listen,
You will hear
What your heart would
Love to say.”
I’ve been living a slower spaciousness. I completed a contract in January, filed the report a couple of weeks ago. Intentionally set timelines to have time to prepare.
The practical. After the brilliant, brittle cold last month, how will long-range forecasts of mid teen and low twenties temperatures feel? Which layers to stay warm at night, at elevation? What are the best footwear options to safeguard against a flareup of the plantar fasciitis I’ve been tending for the month? Which medicinals to shore up and stay healthy? The corkscrew and sharp knife for the impromptu. The swimsuit for the hammam.
The heart. Travel lighter. Make time and space for writing and painting. Bring the journal from last time, the new notebook that matches. Paints and brushes. The camera. Receive what the heart would love to say, to see. Maybe the gift of my sore foot, “to move at the pace of guidance.”
“May you travel in an awakened way,John O’Donohue, “For The Traveler,” in To Bless the Space Between Us, 2008
Gathered wisely into your inner ground;
That you may not waste the invitations
Which wait along the way to transform you.”
Often I travel solo. Typically, an “alone, together” small group experience where I can immerse in the moment to moment unfolding, nurturing impressions in the quiet of my own creative process; then coming out to engage with those around me. Travelling with my husband is markedly different. The focus and energy shifts to us, together, to us, alone, in new spaces, and made new by our travelling them together. I wonder what invitations wait along the way for us, for me?
“May you travel safely, arrive refreshed,John O’Donohue, “For The Traveler,” in To Bless the Space Between Us, 2008
And live your time away to its fullest;
Return home more enriched, and free
To balance the gift of days which call you.”
Seven months since the idea to go to Spain this winter. Almost here, and soon enough home again.
3 thoughts on “Winter in Spain”
A warm and enlightening read Katharine. Enjoy your time in Spain, you’ll renew my memories on your journey. Regards, Dianne.
Just found this when looking up Aracena. We live near Finca Buenvino but have not been here as long as the Chestertons.Very interesting and hope all went well.
Thanks so much for touching in. Yes, we had a wonderful time at Finca Buenvino, the beginning of our time in Andalusia. Blessedly returned home to Canada in the nick of time regarding the pandemic.